The DIY Kit lands with the board, the flat ribbon cable, the mounting hardware, and — if you added it — the ESP already soldered on. The rest of the job is yours: a handful of solder joints and one small cutout in the case. None of that hardware belongs in the shipping box, so here is the short, honest list of what to have on the bench before you start. We don't sell any of it — a real maker-supply shop will always beat what we could pack.
The $100 DIY board does not include an ESP soldering service. The pre-flashed module arrives separately, and the install guide walks through mounting and soldering it yourself.
The tools, one at a time
Everything below is what we'd reach for ourselves. Buy the all-in-one bundle if you'd rather not think about it, or pick pieces individually if you already own half the bench. Links point at plain Amazon searches — grab whatever brand you trust, wherever you shop.
One order that covers most of this page: an adjustable iron, a spool of solder, flux, a few replacement tips and a solder-sucker. Each of those shows up on its own below — this is simply the shortcut if you'd rather not build the list a piece at a time.
Best for
First-timers who want a working bench in a single purchase.
The one spec that matters is temperature control — fixed-heat irons run hot and cook small parts. Anything in the Pinecil / TS101 / Hakko range is plenty. Get one that comes with a stand and a tip cleaner.
Best for
The handful of joints that hold the module and cable in place.
Thin solder gives you control on small pads. Leaded 60/40 is the forgiving choice for a first build; lead-free works too but wants a hotter iron. A separate pot of no-clean flux makes every joint flow cleaner — even seasoned folks keep it close.
Your undo button. Lay the braid on a joint you're not happy with, heat it, and it soaks up the excess so you can start that pad over. It's the difference between a slip and a setback.
Best for
Anyone soldering for the first time — this is the safety net.
Low floor ~5,000 rpmSeveral colletsCordless is fine
Why it's here
One small opening in the case is the only cutting on the whole build. What you want is a low minimum speed — that's what gives you control over plastic instead of melting it. A model that ships with a range of collets means bit-shank size never becomes a problem. Glasses on before it spins.
Best for
The case cutout. Your kit's guide walks the exact shape.
These come as sets, so a small pile of bits arrives and the job only touches a couple — the rest are spares. Many rotary tools already bundle diamond points, so the carbide set is usually the only thing missing. Already own a rotary tool? Check the accessory tray before buying a second set.
Best for
Anyone whose rotary tool didn't come with cutting bits.
To split the shell without scarring it and back the screws out without rounding them off. A single precision kit usually carries all three drivers you'll touch — including the tiny Phillips 0000, which is a pain to source on its own.
Best for
Opening and closing the calculator without leaving a mark.
For proving your joints before any power touches the board. A quick continuity check catches a bridge or a cold joint in seconds — far cheaper than finding it after you've closed the case.
The last step. A little high-strength isopropyl lifts leftover flux and fingerprints so the board goes back into a clean shell instead of a sticky one.
Weak alkalines sag under the module's Wi-Fi current draw and reboot the calculator mid-answer. We keep a short list of cells that hold up — same guide as the ready-made builds.
Best for
Daily use vs. occasional use — the picks split on our battery page.
Whatever bench you assemble, you're starting from known-good parts. Each DIY Kit is checked end-to-end before it leaves us — the board is electrically verified, the camera on vision builds is calibrated, and the firmware is confirmed to boot. We keep a signed, per-unit test record on file so there's a paper trail that the parts left here working.
That record only covers the components as shipped. Once a board has been soldered or installed it can't be returned — so run the continuity check above before you power anything on.
Not into soldering or cutting plastic?
Totally fair — the DIY path expects you to install and solder the included ESP module yourself. If you want to skip that work:
Skip it altogether. A ready-made build arrives finished in a restored TI-84 Plus — no tools, no cutting, no soldering on your end. Already own the calculator? Mail it in with Modify Mine and save $50.
The full guide — order of operations, a photo at every step, and a video version — travels with the kit on two QR codes (one PDF, one video). Want to read it over before you order?
Open the two QR codes in the boxOne opens the illustrated PDF, the other the video. Both cover the same install, start to finish.
Prefer to preview first?Email orders@ghostcalc.org and we'll send the links so you can read the whole thing before buying.
Work the order it gives youOpen, fit the board, run the cable, make the cutout, solder, check continuity, clean, close. The guide keeps that sequence for a reason.
No affiliation. These are just the tools we keep on our own bench — nothing on this page is sponsored and there's no relationship with any seller or brand. GhostCalc earns no commission, referral or affiliate fee from these links, which point at ordinary Amazon searches so you can buy whatever you like, wherever you like. This is a recommendation, not an ad or a contract. Not up for sourcing any of it? The ready-made and Modify Mine builds arrive fully installed instead.